Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Tightbond III

Posted by David Bolin

I'm using Tightbond III on all my rods. I've tested the other industrial strength glues for set resistance. They are more set resistant than TBIII, but they will all take a set if abused. URAC is the most set resistant glue I've tested.

My TBIII rods do not take sets with normal use. But there's something about the process that's worth putting in the list of Secret Stuff. The glue joint needs to cure completely before the blank is straightened. Flexing the blank before the glue has cured will weaken the glue joint. How much weaker will depend on how much of the joint had cured when it was straightened. I will straighten a blank for up to about eight minutes after applying the glue. Beyond that, I don't wiggle, bend or twist a blank for a least a week.

An easy way to tell if the glue has cured is to save a blob about two inches in diameter and watch it cure. The glue will turn darker as it cures. When the color is a consistently darker color, it should be cured enough to straighten. The curing time will vary depending on the temperature and relative humidity.

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